Why spend money on soap, when you can create them in the comfort of your own home? With the brand-new Soap Making Station, your Sim will be able to create new soaps, bath bombs, and salts. Turn your hobby into a money-making venture or craft them for your own personal bath time luxury.
Craft Soap, Bath Bombs and Bath Salts. Selecting the station will open the recipe picker menu, from there you can choose what type of item you would like to create. At level 1 only a few bath bombs are available, you will unlock more recipes as your skill level increases.
The ingredients needed for crafting can be separated into two groups - harvestables (EA flowers, some of my custom harvestables), and soap-making essentials (they can be purchased when pressed on the Soap Station, there will be an option to buy soap making supplies). All ingredients are optional, you can create products without them, it will just cost more.
Craft Soap, Bath Bombs, Bath Salts (these you are familiar with, since they are the same from the Soap Making Station), Shampoo, Lip Balm and Face Masks. Selecting the station will open the recipe picker menu, from there you can choose what type of item you would like to create.
Note: If you use the historical crafting station, you will need to light up the fire, before being able to see ther Soap, Shampoo and Lip Balm interactions, sinc ether require warmth to be produced.
At level 1 only a few bath bombs are available, you will unlock more recipes as your skill level increases. Level 3 of the skill unlocks bath salts menu, level 4 unlocks face masks, soaps are unlocked at level 6 (at level 5 you can craft only plain soap), level 7 unlocks lip balms and shampoos are unlocked at level 9.
The ingredients needed for crafting can be separated in two groups - harvestables (EA flowers, some of my custom harvestables), and cosmetics crafting essentials essentials (they can be purchased when pressed on the Soap Station, there will be option buy soap making supplies). All ingredients are optional, you can create products without them, it will just cost more.
Thank you for this post.They are providing information to tips for soaping in small spaces.Soaping has totally taken over my former dining room. I have a six foot tall shelf where I keep most of my soaping things. I will sharing your post to other users.
With plastic molds and cold process soap it can take over a week for the soap to be hard enough to remove easily from them. Check out tips on using Cold Process in Plastic here: -and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/unmolding-cold-process-soap-from-plastic-molds/
Hi Anna, there are some things that are very important to keep track of. I would recommend reading this article we wrote on Cosmetics vs Drug Claims as well as the one on how to label your soap: -fda-cosmetic-vs-drug-claims/ -and-body-tutorials/cold-process-soap/how-to-label-cold-process-soap/
Hello! I love all of your soap advice. In your videos that I have watched, you use a glass bowl for your soap mixture. Can a plastic bowl be used? Also, can a plastic stick blender (with metal blades) be used? Thanks!
Yes, you want to cut your soap into bars and then place them in a cool, dry place with good airflow. That will help them cure in 4-6 weeks. Learn more about curing and storing soap here: -and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/how-to-store-handmade-bath-products/
Sorry. Yes, they are cold process soaps. I have them in a room on a white coated metal rack that allows for a lot of air movement, and and they are kept out of the sun. I do have air on, but maybe its not cool enough?
Years ago, I moved my laundry room to the garage to have it on the main floor and converted the old laundry room into an office, which RARELY got used. I even installed kitchen cabinets (overhead and below) in a pattern that could contain your kitchen sink (no sink in mine) and it became a catch all. When I started soaping 3 years ago, I decided the counter and cabinets would make a good soaping area. There is even a utility sink for convenient clean up and a safe place to make the lye water. As time went on, my oils, colors, scents, molds, utensils, etc increased and my perfect space was too small. I discovered, my scales, molds, etc can go on top of the cabinets (I am very tall) to keep the counter mostly free. I discarded my oven rack for curing and now I use the rack in the closet for curing soaps (a wire rack: perfect). I added a very small fridge on the floor and all my oils sit on it so I still manage to keep the counter relatively clear for soaping and a rarely used room is used all the time now.
When I started, everything was in my dining room/kitchen. We decided to turn one of our spare rooms into a dedicated soap curing and storage room. We also use shop racks to cure our soaps as well as for storage space. Right now I have but could use 5 more LOL.
David Fisher is a highly regarded professional soaper with over 15 years of experience, sharing his knowledge of the craft, science, and chemistry of saponification. He currently owns Bath Rabbit Soap Company and is the author of "The Complete Photo Guide to Soap Making."
If you do this, make sure you clearly label these items as "hazardous" or "dangerous" as they sit overnight during the saponification process. Notify other unsuspecting family members and carefully tuck these items well out of reach. You do not want to risk anyone from getting burned from your soap-making tools.
Liquid soap is a multi- purpose, affordable product that everyone needs. Community and school based Health Clubs promote the cause in the school and at home. Soap making takes place under teacher supervision and may be integrated with topics in science, math, social studies, and literacy. Soap sales promote good hygiene, increase school attendance, and provide an elegant self-sustaining solution to a critical issue in our rural community.
After a few job changes landed her at a radio station, her path would take yet another turn when the pandemic hit. She ended up dedicating more and more time to soap making as the need for hygiene products on the reservation grew.
Now comes the exciting part. To make cold process soap from your ingredients pour the lye solution through a sieve and into the pan of oil. The sieve is to make sure that no bits of undissolved lye make their way into your soap.
Also, if you add whole ingredients before the soap has traced, then the immersion blender will pulse them up. You could want this and do it deliberately, but you might not be aiming for that and so we add exfoliants and extras once the immersion blender is set aside. The last reason specifically touches on the super-fatting of your recipe.
Most modern soap recipes include a superfat, meaning an extra amount of oil that makes the soap gentle and conditioning. The way it works is that lye in a recipe can only convert a certain amount of oil into soap. If you add more than what it can interact with, that extra oil stays free-floating in the soap.
Read up on them and choose which one will be best for you. I should also say that antioxidants are not true preservatives but work to keep the extra oils in your soap from going rancid. They help stall the oxidization of free-floating oils. Soap does not require preservatives so you do not need to add any. The pH and very low amount of water left in soap bars rule out bacteria wanting, or being able, to colonize it.
Hi Maria, handheld mixers are dangerous to use in soapmaking since they tend to lead to splatters. When working with lye, you must be very careful because it can burn your skin, your furniture and countertops, and hurt any animals that might accidentally walk in spilled soap batter. As for recipes, you can use most cold-process soap recipes as dog soap. The important thing is to avoid using essential oils that are toxic to dogs. Best to leave it unscented or stick with safe ones like lavender, rosemary, and citronella.
Nearly all from-scratch soap recipes can be made using the cold process method or the hot process method. Most of my recipes include instructions on making them using cold-process, but I have a hot process recipe (with a cook) to try here.
Thank you for one of the clearest tutorials I have seen yet. You mention that the lye solution cannot be reheated. I made my very first batch the other day (have not even un-molded it yet) and was concerned that I had let the lye solution get too cold, so I threw it in the microwave for 90 seconds so it would conform to the specified temperatures. Did I ruin the batch? I checked the batch in the molds after 24 hours and it was still sticky and there was a bit of a volcano in one. To complicate matters, I know that I only blended it to a very light trace (to the point where I thought, perhaps, that I had not blended it enough, but was very concerned about over blending and not being able to pour the soap). I used an established recipe that contained olive oil and coconut oil.Thank you so much for your time and attention. I really enjoy your blog!Gina
Thank you Tanya, the list you shared is so helpful there are some i passed by all the time in the market but now i Know, so what are some of the natural fragrances that remains even after the curing process u would suggest? i have been using eucalyptus and it stays but i want to change to others, i guess imma keep reading your reviews for more clarifications, i am definately into natural soap making.
1. Once the soap cures and I use it, can I use the grey water to water my plants? (I have used nothing but the oils and lye.)2. Despite no superfatting, if I try to do my dishes with it, it leaves an oily residue. What should I change to get squeaky clean, non-oily dishes? 781b155fdc